**Note- Not every single mod especially the hardcore engine mods and internal specs will not be listed.**
Click On Blue Text To See Photo
Another pic of the Harness
April 29, 2004
Pic of Harness
RCI 5-Point Racing Harness Installed!
UPDATES: Well after my 12.1 shakedown run at South Georgia Motorsports Park a couple of weekends back I figured I needed to upgrade a few safety components. namely my seat belt. I had been using one of the stockers. But at the angle around the RCI seat, it was not a very good fit. The harness was a breeze to install. I used the holes from where the factory seatbelts were installed. Which cut installation time exponentially. The kit being 5 point came with a submarine belt, which I did not install, maybe at a later date. It also has the most update SFi rating so is acceptable by ALL racing sanctioning bodies.
April 10, 2004
Pic to be loaded soon
Pic to be loaded soon
ABS Removed, Complete Delete! 22lbs savings!
UPDATES: Well I finally completed my ABS to non-ABS conversion. Thanks go out to Jim McKeone with his write up that is listed on the Vfaq page. With the help from Reggie at Capital City Mitsubishi we were able to find all the part numbers for the conversion. Listed below are all the required parts & part numbers:
MB699-645 caps# 55876 $42.58
Master cylinder to proportioning valve lines:
MB534-426 caps# 56256B $4.52
MB500-561 caps# 56255B $4.88
Front brake lines to proportioning valve:
MB857-176 caps# 56267R (passenger side) $3.60
MB534-428 caps# 56267L (driver side) $5.15
I did my conversion for the wights savings and did a complete delete, to include pump, all lines, all sensors to include those from the rear axle hub, all mounting brackets and bolts, ABS computer, and ABS wiring harness, to include the pain stacking process of removing all the wiring that was tied into the main wiring, to include removing the 60amp ABS fuse from the fuseblock on the battery and all the wiring from that. With every single component, no matter how small that was associated with the ABS I netted a 22.4lbs savings.
April 3, 2004
Angled pic of seat
Pic of the side profile of seat
RCI Lite-Weight Racing Seat Installed!
UPDATES: Well every 1G owner knows how heavy the stock leather seats are. Especially the driver side with the adjustable lumbar. The driver seat alone is a whopping 41 lbs. The RCI seat which is made out of polyethylene weighs in a 13lbs. I then had some custom aluminum brackets made. when it was all said and done and weighed with all mounting hardware and everything, the total was 15.4 lbs. Which is a 25.6 lbs savings. The seat is actually more comfortable than I expected. PLus all the weight savings makes it seem more comfortable. Look for more weight to come out next week. I will performing an ABS delete.
March 20, 2004
Pic to be loaded soon
Entire Dash and console removed!!
UPDATES: I basically gutted the entire car this weekend. The main goal of this was to put the car back together using the only required brackets, bolts, screws and what not. There was a bonus though. I was able to remove a big rubber blanket that covered the firewall which I was unaware of. That alone was 12 lbs. Then I scrapped whatever sound deadening material remained from the front. Then started to put the car back together. Eliminating nummerous heavy metal brackets that held the dash so rigidly. More weight savings to follow.
February 28, 2004
Pic to be loaded soon
Sound Deadening Material Being Removed!
UPDATES: Started scrapping out the sound deading material in the car. Starting from the trunk and making my way forward. I have been using a Red Devil 2 inch putty knife. The blue handle kind, which is more flexible than the red handle type. It is going slowly but should net at least 20 lbs of savings and is a free mod! Except for the blood and sweat. Look for more weight to come out in the next couple of weeks.
February 14, 2004
Pic of battery mounted
Odyssey PC680 Lite-Weight battery Installed!
UPDATES: The battery is simply amazing. Incredible build quality. Plus it weight in at only 14 lbs. Compared to my stocker MOpar unit which was 37 lbs. So some weight savings there. plus I could have gone lighter but wanted to having plenty of juice to power my radio and a/c and all lights at night with ease. I fabricated my own aluminum mount for the battery to save additional weight. The stock battery mount with bolts and plastic bucket was around 6 lbs. I mounted the battery on the inside of the wall of the chassis, see picture above. So I had to rerout some of the wiring and by a couple new ground wires. the stock wires were to short for the new location. More good news about the battery is that it is un-spillable and can be mounted any where and in any orientation. side note* same battery used to be sold as a Hawker, well yea, Hawker makes them and odyssey slaps a logo on it, whats new.
January 18, 2004
Pic of rear bumper skin
Angle Pic of Rear of car w/no bumper
Rear Pic of car bumperless
Pic of bumper support on scale, 14.5 Kg
Rear Bumper support removed!
UPDATES: Started to tune the MAF-T some more. Also removed the rear bumper bracket support. Should be good for nearly 30lbs. The weight reduction will continue.
January 10, 2004
Pic to be loaded soon
Pic to be loaded soon
Trust Front Strut Tower Bar Installed!
UPDATES: Well, finally taking a much needed break from the car over the holidays, ie. Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years, back to the mods. I order thr Trust Unit because it has a ring that surrounds the entire top half of the strut tower. It turns out that the "NEW" 1G DSM bar no longer has blue ends, but the new trust color is a metallic silver. Much the same color as the "NEW" Whiteline color scheme, how funny and how lucky for me. So They are all matching now cosmetically. This pice is pretty much the last suspension component the car was lacking. Wow, the unit is a great piece, I love it.
November 14, 2003
Pic of Top-View of GM MAF
Pic of Side-View of GM MAF
Road Race Engineering Couplers installed on GM MAF!!
UPDATES: The couplers finally arrived from Road Race and got them installed. I ordered the 3.5 inch couplers but was mistakenly sent the 3.25 inch ones. After stretching them over nite on a wine bottle they went on the next morning with a little effort. I went ahead and made some homemade bands to tie the clamps together on either side of the MAF to ensure that the couplers were not coming off no matter what the boost levels are. Off to the track this weekend for a little test and tune!
November 8, 2003
Pic of box w/ part number of GM MAF
Pic of MAF-T, 3.5" GM MAF, Temporary couplers
Pic of mounted MAF-T
MAF Translator & 3.5" GM MAF Installed!!
UPDATES: Well, went ahead and got the MAF Translator from Mike and the guys over at Ramchargers. Got the 3.5 GM Maf from the guys over at DSMparts.com. I went ahead and used some Fernco couplers from Lowes. These are just temporary to get all my piping lined up. As I will be installing my MAF in Blow-thru setup for my vented BOV. Installation was straightforward and very simple. I learned with the temporary couplers that I cannot run more than 9-10 psi without blowing them off or having them inflate like balloons. Stay tuned as I will be tuning for the next couple of weeks.
October 26, 2003
Front shot of car showing lights
Whiteline Rear Upper Strut Tower Bar Installed!
Strut Tower Bar arrives from Australia!
Pic of strutbar installed
Pic of strutbar mounting plate
UPDATES: The Whiteline Rear Upper Strut Tower Bar is another solid piece. Jackie and the whole crew at Whiteline never cease to amaze me. The build quality is superb. As usual the unit was an exact fit, with all hardware included and oversized for added durabilty.
October 19, 2003
Top-View Pic of new bracket & lamp
Whiteline 2x's Oversized Rear SwayBar Installed!
Swaybar arrives from Australia!
Pic of New endlinks & poly-bushings
Pic of New poly chassis bushing
UPDATES: The Whiteline Rear Sway Bar is just simply amazing. Jackie and the whole crew at Whiteline took care of me once aagin with this awesome piece. The bar is probably the largest bar you can fit without modifiying the car. There is approx. 3-5mm of clearance at the end, from the hubs. Just simply amazing. As most of their bars are, my new sway bar is 3-way adjustable. basically 3-holes at the end of the bar at each side, which permit you to play with the stiffness a little by relocating your endlinks. I went ahead and installed new endlinks also. The bar came with new oversized chassis polyurethane D-clamps. I also had Whiteline send me some new polyurethane endlink bushings. Installation did take some effort. It was an exact fit and no room to play with and the bar was unbelivably stiff, making installation that much more difficult. But, definelty worth it.
October 14, 2003
Angle Pic of new bracket & lamp
Finalized Light Mod!!
UPDATES: Will update soon, hopefully. I know lots of you had e-mailed me on this mod, I promise a decent write-up is forthcoming
September 27, 2003
PIC with fans attached
PIC with new mounts and poly-bushings
New Radiator Installed!!
UPDATES: The stock radiator finally gave out. The top tank cracked. So I just bought a new OEM unit. After further inspection of the old radiator, there was a ton of sludge in there. So it was partially obstructed, playing a factor in its cooling capabilities.
September 12, 2003
Headlight guts removed
Hi-Intensity Driving lamp installed
Pic with Lid in Lazy Mode!
Pic With Lights On
Headlight Guts On The Scale
Completed Lazy-Eye Ram Air Mod!!
UPDATES: Well, finally got around to completing this mod. Removed every single item associated with the stock pop-up lights. Removed items included, motors, pivoting assemblies, sealed halogen bulbs and all trim. The weight of all the stuff removed tipped the scale at 12KG(26.4 Lbs). Not bad for some weight reduction. I then put some rain gutter mesh to protect the air filter from rocks and debris as well as the belts on the driver side headlight area. I then installed some hi-intensity driving lamps to allow me to drive at night. Turns out that they illuminate the road much better than the stock halogens. Now with the headlight lids raised to lazy eye mode, air flows directly into the air filter.
August 29, 2003
BG Syncro Shift II
Stainless Clutch Line Installed
Tranny & Transfer Case Fluid Changed!!
UPDATES: With the clutch finally broke in, I went ahead and installed the stainless clutch line. The fit was great with great build quality. Bled the clutch system at the slave when I was done. I finally got in the BG syncroshift I had ordered. Seemed alot thinner than the other stuff I had been putting in. But everyone says it is the best for our tempermental trannys. I guess I'll see how it holds up.
August 16, 2003
Taboo Clutch Fork & Stock Fork
Pivot Ball Washer Mod
Taboo Clutch Fork Installed!
Fidanza & Stock Flywheel
ACT Street Disk & Stock Disk
ACT 2600 & Stock Pressure Plate
Completed Clutch Install Pic
Clutch Goodies Finally Installed!!
UPDATES: The clutch stuff is finally installed. Wow! Talk about time consuming, it took the whole Saturday to complete. I could not have done it without Carlo's help. Thanks Carlo! We took our time and cleaned up the bell housing. Also installed the two washers behind the pivotball. Installed the Taboo Billet clutch fork I receieved for winning the DSMtalk feature car contest. I must say that the fork is definetly a quality product, unbreakable to say the least. Installed new OEM Mitsubishi throwout bearing. The Fidanza flywheel and ACT pressure plate and street disk went in just perfectly. So now just need to knock off a few hundred miles of city driving to break the clutch in. Sould have no problem holding the power now! mileage=70,370
August 9, 2003
Castrol Syntec Gear Oil 75W-90
Rear Differential, Transaxle and Transfer Case Fluids changed
UPDATES: Went ahead and drained the Manual Transaxle, Transfer Case and and Rear Differential. The rear diff. gear oil was still fairly clean, but I did notice some small metallic particals on the drain plug magnet. Down the road I probably be putting in a 4 gear spider anyways. The manual transaxle and transfer case gear oil was a different story. I dont know if it broke down or what. But the odor coming out of both was pretty foul. To add to that the gear oil did not feel very viscous. Possibly excessive heat. I went ahead and put in some Castrol Syntec Gear Oil. Which is a API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 weight Gear Oil. mileage=70100
August 5, 2003
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel--> Pic #1
Taboo Billet Clutch Fork!
ACT 2600 Extreme Pressure Plate!
ACT Performance Street Disk!
Braided Stainless Steel Clutch Line
All the clutch goodies finally arrive!!
UPDATES: After feeling the clutch pedal get soft after a few hard launches, I knew it was time to upgrade. So taking a break from never ending task of upgrading all the suspension components. The project to keep me busy for the next few weeks is getting the clutch up to speed. It is clearly evident that the power the car is generating is just too much for the stock clutch setup. UPS managed to not deliver the clutch, so I had to track it down and pick it up myself. Oh well, they have done us good in the past. So stay tuned and I hope to get to this in the next week or two.
July 20, 2003
Tufoil Engine Treatment
Fram Oil Filter
Castrol Syntec 20W-50
UPDATES: That time again. After making yet another long road trip to visit some family the mileage is racking up. Went ahead and ran another engine flush. Then drained all oil and then replaced the filter. Then poured in the fresh oil. Then topped it off with Tufoil engine treatment. This is my third oil change that I've used this product. Since the tic has since disappeared, I use it now just for good measure. mileage=69380
July 12, 2003
New Left and Right Front Corner Lights Installed
UPDATES: Picked these up so that all the plastic was the same clarity up front. After putting in the new front signal lamps, it was obvious that the corners were the old stockers. No longer. Went with the OEM style instead of the clears. This is because I'm trying to keep it original as possible.
July 7, 2003
Falken Ziex Tires Installed!
Angle Profile Pic!
Tread Pattern Pic!
UPDATES: The Falken Ziex are one of the more popular tires back home in Japan. This is so because they have excellent wet weather traction. During the rainy season the racing stops for nothing. They are also a "W" speed rating which is up to 168mph. This is above the 149 mph of the conventional "Z" rated performance tires. They are considered an all-weather tire. They are a top seller High-performance tire back in Japan because they receive "A" marks in dry weather performance, wet weather performance, moderate sound level, durability and speed rating. Giving the tire a near perfect pentagon on the Japanese Performance Scale.The way they sit on the rim is most definetly the Japanese style with the huge bead protector..
June 28, 2003
Whiteline Control Arm Bushings Installed!
Bushings arrive from Australia!
Burning out stock bushings
Upper Arm Before & After Pic!
Bushing Installed Before & After Pic
Pic of new completed rear suspension setup!
UPDATES: The Whiteline Rear Upper Control Arm Adjustable Camber Bushings arrive from Australia. Very trick piece. I removed the upper control arms. Then used a mini-propane powered torch to burn out the stock rubber bushings. This took a little time, 20-30 minutes. Then with a dremel, sanded the inside of the collars smooth. Then sanded and cleaned the whole control arm. Then painted the arms the same Tein green as the suspension. Then installed the whiteline bushings with the supplied grease. That easy! Then installed the arms. Now I can adjust my rear camber to very respectible specs no matter what the ride height.
June 21, 2003
ABS line cracked-must see pic!
UPDATES: The brakes had always felt a little mushy when under hard load. Well, when I put on the Baer Brake system and the stainless lines I thought that would solve most of it. As of late the pedal feel had gotten worse. So I "Bled" the brake master cylinder to include the ABS pump and re-bled all the calipers. The feel was solid, but gradualy got softer over time. What made it hard to pinpoint was the fact that I had flushed the whole system completely and the new ABS brake fluid was nearly crystal clear. Making the job of locating a leak impossible. Needless to say after one whole weekend of following and inpsecting everyline I found it. There was a small amout of greasy residue by one of the fittings going into the ABS unit. I drained as much fluid as possible from the system. Then I unscrewed the fitting going into the ABS unit expecting to see that the o-ring that the double-flared end of the line sits up against was shot. To my SHOCK and and utter disbelief when I unscrewed the fitting. The line was cracked and the crack was concealed by the brass fitting that holds the line in place! So I would have never known, had I not taken it apart. Needless to say it is now fixed. The brakes are rock solid now!
June 14, 2003
RedLine Water Wetter
UPDATES: With summer upon us, Its coolant time. I went ahead and flushed the coolant system completely. Then figured out Water/Coolant mix. I tried to stick close to 60% water and 40% coolant as I could. Then topped it all off with a bottle of Redline WaterWetter. I've heard nothing but good things on this product so I figure I give it a try since I'm flushing and changing the coolant anyway.
June 5, 2003
Tufoil Engine Treatment
Fram Oil Filter
Castrol Syntec 20W-50
UPDATES: That time again. I wanted to change the oil before our long trip down to Orlando. Went ahead and ran another engine flush. Then drained all oil and then replaced the filter. Then poured in the fresh oil. Then topped it off with Tufoil engine treatment. I am a true believer in this stuff now. This being the second oil change that I've used this product and the tick that plaques most 4G63 engines is a distant memory. Mileage=65880
May 31, 2003
Exhaust Hangers modified!
UPDATES: With the new lower more aggresive stance of the Talon I had to adjust the exhaust. The way the system hung underneath the car it was the lowest point on the car. To avoid scraping it during dailing driving and the track I had to do some adjusting. I removed all the rubber muffler hangers and replaced them with metal muffler hangers. What this permitted me to do was tuck the muffler piping as far into the existing muffler channels as possible. In some spots in the undercarriage it is budded right against the heat shields. Now the muffler no longer sits lower than the body. If anything scraps it will be the undercarriage. When I grab the muffler tip and try to wiggle it it has no play to it. Rock solid!
May 24, 2003
Tein Suspension Dialed-In!
Side (profile) pic
UPDATES: Finally got around to dialing in the suspension. The alignment in the front is a breeze now, thanks to the camber plates. Took some trial and error to get the ride height set just right. Finding a point were the rebound of the struts and spring worked well for my desired level of driving. When all was said and done it was about 1/2 inch lower than the KYB/AGX/Intrax setup.
May 16, 2003
Tein Type HA Coil-Overs Arrive!
UPDATES: The Tein Suspension setup finally arrived from Japan. We were sent the Tein Type HA system. Which is one level below the racing Tein N1's. I'll post up specifics later, spring rates and what not. All I can say is WOW! What an awesome unit. Helper springs to keep it all in place. 16-way adjustability. I played with this some. On "zero" they say it should be close to a stock softness ride. Which it is. Then on "16" it should be very stiff, which was an understatement. More like rock hard. I could not generate more than 1/2 inch of travel. Quality is excellent. Everything is overbuilt. Also real easy to rebuild. Everything was an exact fit to the millimeter.
May 8, 2003
2nd Slim-Line Fan Installed
UPDATES: Finally got around to installing that second slim-line fan. That stock unit was just occupying so much space and pushing so little air. Also pulled off the manni heat shield and shot it a hi-temp temp silver paint. The same silver I had used for all the intercooler piping. Should be cured in a few days. Just could not stand the attention the black commanded under the hood.
May 5, 2003
New Heat-Shields Installed
UPDATES: Got new heat-shields for the exhaust manni and the O2 housing. Suprisingly when I got them they were a flat black. I thought that they would be silver like the orignals. So I went ahead and painted them both with a hi-temp hi-gloss black paint. The contrast between the heatshields and the valve cover are a bit much for my taste. I'm currently debating on what color to powder coat the valve cover and if I should re-coat the heatshields a different color. Only time will tell.
April 26, 2003
New Left and Right Front Turn Signals Installed
UPDATES: The Passenger side signal lens had developed a crack in it and when I would wash the car or it would rain it would get moisture inside. I really cannot stand little things like that to detract from the appearance of the car or cause attention to itself. So it had to be replaced. I bought a new Left and Right Signal lens. They look great once again. Plus the headlights shine more brilliant thru the new clear plastic lens.
April 19, 2003
12" Slim-Line Fan Installed
UPDATES: Finally put a 12 inch slim-line fan in place of the 12 inch stock unit. The fan is a 850 CFM unit, which is actually 675 CFM pulling thru a radiator. With the summer upon us it is added insurance that the car will maintain it's 180-195 operating range. I will replace the 12" unit that is in front of the exhaust manni with a 14" slim-line unit in the near future.
April 12, 2003
Axxis Metal Master Pads Installed
UPDATES: Finally got around to changing the rear brake pads which were starting to squeal a little. There was still plenty of pad left but since they were OEM equipment they had glazed over. The axxis pads are a bit more aggressive and have more bite than the oem pads. Went ahead and greased all pins, sleeves and pistons on the calipers also.
April 5, 2003
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs Installed
Plugs & Wires
Plugs & Wires Installed
Magnacor 10mm Spark Plug Wires Installed
UPDATES: Finally got around to putting the Iridium plugs in that I brought from Japan. Funny that they are the same model as what was in our LS400, IK20. Also put on the larger 10mm. Magnacor plug wires. The wires are great. 100% silicone, even the boot. Install was easy enough.
March 29, 2003
Engine Bay Pic
Homemade Intake Completed & Installed.
Coupler & Tube
All Pieces Attached
Completed Assembly Installed
Before & After Pic
Air Duct Tube Installed.
UPDATES: Since the stock intercooler pipes were replaced there was a large space left where the upper intercooler pipe use to go through the body. I bought a 15" piece of pre-heater aluminum hose from autozone. Fed it thru the stock hole in the body and out thru the front bumper. So now air could flow directly from the front into the engine bay. Then I took a 3 inch "street" pipe elbow from Lowes and cut it to 5 inches in length. Then Slide it into the stock accordian intake hose. I then used a Fernco metal sleeved coupler to attach the air filter assembly to the new plastic intake tube. This now made the air filter sit right on top of the air duct hose I had coming into the engine bay. A little bit of ram air, should make for some cooler air being forced into the air filter.
March 22, 2003
Tufoil Engine Treatment
Fram Oil Filter
Castrol Syntec 20W-50
UPDATES: After taking a month off from the car it was time to do an oil change. I had noticed that one of the valves had a slight tick to it. Well, I picked up a quart of 5 minute engine flush and let the car idle for about 10 minutes with it in. then drained all oil and then replaced the filter. and poured in the fresh oil. Then topped it off with Tufoil engine treatment. It is some thick stuff. Now the tick is nearly non existent. Next oil change I'm going to do the same thing, flush and add tufoil and then it should be totally gone. That tufoil is some good stuff. I was impressed. I recommend it highly. Mileage=63652
February 22, 2003
Lights On Pic
"Nismo" Duct Pic
Bumper Ducts Installed, Finally!
UPDATES: Finally got the ducts in from Japan. We had ordered some "Nismo" ducts that go in the R33-GTR bumper. I wanted to cut the bumper holes to line up on the intercooler just like they do on the GTR. Which I did. However, because of this the holes were not at the proper angle of the bumper to utilize the "Nismo" Ducts. I'll save them for a future project I have in mind(secret stuff)! So then what I did is bought some "Door Edge" molding in black and fit it into the holes in the bumper. The trim has adhesive in the center and thats what permits it to stay in place. Now the intercooler can breathe like it needs. On a side note, it turns out that the headlights in their "Lazy Eye" mode illuminate in the bumper. The intercooler is slightly illuminated making people realize there is a little something more to this Talon.
February 15, 2003
UPDATES: Finally got around to repainting the side mirrors. Both were extremely faded. They were really the only part of the car that had visible wear. Pulled them off. Then taped off the mirror itself. Then sanded the mirror with 320 grit and then finishing with 420 grit. Then wiping clean with acetone. After allowing them to dry I then painted them Gloss Black with Rustoleum Professional. Let them cure for 48 hours then put them back on the car.
February 8, 2003
Brembo 13" Slotted and Drilled Rotors-Installed!
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines-Installed!
Baer Dual-Piston PBR Calipers-Installed!
Before & After Complete System Pic!
UPDATES: Finally got the braking system upgraded. We got the Baer Claw "Track" set up with Dual Piston Aluminum PBR Calipers. Aluminum relocation brackets and all hardware. With the kit we ordered the massive 13" rotors cadmium plated, slotted and cross-drilled. The rotors are also vented and 1" thick. Also included was a blue aluminum hub-ring to ensure the rotor is perfectly centered. We also installed stainless steel braided lines. The whole installation was straight forward and simple. They look very tough through the open spokes of the rims. The setup is very large so make sure you get a template to ensure you have enough room in your wheel to accommodate the large caliper and rotor. Minimum 17" diameter rim. I have about a 7mm gap between the face of the caliper and the back of my rim spokes. So even on 8" wide 18"s it is a close fit.
February 1, 2003
Windshield Finally Tinted, just half.
UPDATES: After experimenting with tinting the entire windshield I decided to just go with the traditional Japanese half window job. I may have the entire windshield done professionally when we get back to Japan. The half-window does the job though. Keeps people guessing what's inside. As well as giving it that Japanese gang-style feel.
January 20, 2003
Upper 2.5"-3" FMIC Pipe Completed & Installed.
2G ThrottleBody Elbow installed.
Pic #1(2G Vs. 1G)
UPDATES: Finally finished upper mandrel bent pipe. Took alot of measuring to get it right. Welded on the BOV flange that came with the Turbo XS unit. Also installed a 2G throttle Body elbow that I honed out to match the inlet of the intake mannifold. And used more Sard double bead clamps and some high power couplers. So she should be good to go no matter what the boost!! Boost levels will be on the rise now! :)
January 18, 2003
Buschur 2.25" Turbo Outlet Installed
Lower FMIC 2.5"-3" pipe Completed and Installed.
UPDATES: Installed buschur J-pipe of turbo outlet. Finally finished 2"-2.5"-3" mandrel bent pipe for after turbo outlet to the new massive trust intercooler. Came out better than expected. Looks great and a perfect fit. New High Performance couplers. Should not bust any of these. Also using Sard Double Bead hose clamps. No blowing any of these couplers off. Should be finished with the upper pipe in the next few days.
January 11, 2003
Ordered Pilot Short Throw Shifter
Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses Replaced
UPDATES: Drained all coolant today. Put on new Sard radiator hoses. So now the coolant system is complete.
December 18, 2002
Trust Radiator Cap-installed
Trust Shift Knob-installed
Side Pic Of Shifter, For relative height
UPDATES: Installed The Trust(greddy) high pressure radiator cap. The cap is rated to 1.3 bars. The stock cap was no longer cutting it under high boost. Some of the coolant was forcing its way out from under the cap. Especially with the new high pressure GMB water pump. Also put on a greddy shift knob. It is carved from one block of aluminum and has some weight to it. Since the short throw shifter was shorter than stock the shift knob sits pretty low in the console. This
should shorten the throw that much more. Plus, it looks good too.
December 15, 2002
Pilot Short Throw Shifter part#PM-315-Installed
Picture with bumper on.
UPDATES: This intercooler is huge. The core is 24" wide, 12" tall, 3" deep. With the endtakes it is a mind blowing 36" wide. The inlets are 3.25". Since 3.25" piping is a little difficult to fit under the hood, I went with 2.5" to 3" inch. Still very big. I used reducers(3.25"-3") at the end tanks and custom did everything else. I was able to make it fit without having to move any a/c lines or any of the other compromises you usually have to do with typical 1G FMIC kits. That is why I love doing it all myself. It is like the intercooler was built specifically for the car. It is actually for an R33 Skyline GTR. It is the same intercooler all the guys use for custom applications in Japan. I custom built some pretty trick mounting brackets. If you would like some pics and instructions just drop me an e-mail. Oh Yeah! I almost forget to mention that I had to move one of the fans to fit the piping. So in order to keep the temps down I had to rewire the remaining fan to kick on and stay on as long as the engine is running. If you want the break down on this mod also e-mail me.
December 7, 2002
Trust Power Extreme II Exhaust-finally installed
UPDATES: My stuff from Japan finally arrived. Now I have more goodies to install than time. The Trust exhaust was not an exact fit like previously anticipated. It had to be modified and required the use of a Takero's straight pipe after the Apex'i down pipe. The Takero's straight pipe and trust remaining pipe and canister are all stainless. The mod to the muffler forces it to shoot out at a extreme angle, I think that is some of my Japanese blood causing that to happen. Very Bozozoko Style. The next big project is installing the Trust(greddy) Intercooler. To say the intercooler in massive is an understatement. 3 feet wide, Nuff Said!
November 29, 2002
UPDATES: Removed Intercooler today. Now that the crankcase blow-by is no longer going to the intake, the intercooler should remain clean. I just removed the intercooler. Filled it up with gas. Put ziplocs and zipties on the outlets and let it sit. Then shook the intercooler around and poured the gas out and repeated until the gas ran clean. That's it.
November 23, 2002
Bosch Oil Filter
Castrol Syntec 20W-50
UPDATES: That time to change the oil. First oil change since the trip from North Dakota. Went ahead and used the castrol because it was very thick and suppose to be of high quality. I have HKS full synthetic coming, as well as Blitz Racing and Apex'i oil and synthetics coming with my stuff from Japan. Yup! still waiting for my stuff from Japan. So the Talon is still running the stock back half muffler, oh well. Good things come to those who can wait. Mileage=60274
November 21, 2002
GMB Performance Thermostat
UPDATES: Finally went back out to the shop to redo the timing belt. Easy enough since I had just did it last week. On the vfaq there was a tip about the balance shaft that worked really well and saved some extra work. Turn the timing mark on the sprocket straight up and let go. If it rotates counter-clockwise back to the timing mark on the block it is in sync. If it rotates clockwise when you let go, turn it one complete revolution and it's in sync, cool! The thermostat was easy, no need to elaborate. The car is operating in the 180 degree range now. 20 degrees cooler. A cool running turbo engine is a happy engine. Oh yea, put 2 oz. of syncromesh in the transmission. This is suppose to help with some of the 1G shifting issues. This is how the TSB reads. TSB-92-22-002,"When shifting becomes difficult due to dried synchos, the first course of action should be to add 2 ounces of friction modifier to the transmission through the speedomter gear cable hole." Nuff said.
November 16, 2002
GMB Performance Water Pump
UPDATES: The GMB water pump is made in Japan and it is the exact one used on the EVO's. It flows 300% more than the American OEM unit. A specially modified, high performance impeller eliminates cavitation at all RPM's, and maintains maximum volumetric flow of coolant throughout the engine. Also suppose to lower engine temps 15-30 degrees when used in conjunction with their high performance thermostat. I did not read up on changing the water pump. I just went at it. Might as well have put in new cams since I had to pull the timing belt. Should have read the vfaq on the timing belt change. Cause I put the timing belt on and got it all back together only to find out I had my balance shaft out of sync. Unfortunately I still have my balance shaft installed. So it is causing the engine to vibrate at higher RPM's. I'll be back in the shop redoing the timing belt. Oh well, practice makes perfect.
November 12, 2002
Trust Timer Harness part# TT14-42
Trust Turbo Timer-installed
UPDATES: The shifter went in like a breeze. Since I had left most of the center console dismantled. The build quality is great. Not a modified stock piece like some people offer. The shifter is a nearly straight piece, while the stock one has a very noticable curve to it. The Pilot unit is about half an inch shorter than the stock unit. The Turbo Timer Took 10 minutes at tops to install. Always get the optional harness for your specific vehicle. It makes installtion just a single snap. I did have to hook up one extra wire. To use the Speed functions of the turbo timer such as 0-100km(60mph),0-200km(100mph),0-200m(1/8th mile),0-400(1/4 mile), lap times and a ton of other built in features, such as Battery Voltage, and Digital Speedometer. You'll need to hook up the lavender speed wire from the TT to the ECU harness. Locate the 24 pin connector of the ECU. Pin number 18,Vehicle speed sensor(red switch) is the one you tap into. For some reason alot of sites out there seem to think 1G's cannot utilize this function of TT's. With the trust you can. You just need to calibrate it's speed reading. It's in the manual.
November 8, 2002
Ordered Trust Turbo Timer
UPDATES: The Symborski kit was really easy to install. Took longer to dismantle the center console. The bushings are an exact fit. Great machining. Turns out my shift plate was not even straight with the stock rubber bushings in place.
November 5, 2002
*should help with shift precision and control.
Ordered Symborski shifter kit.
November 4, 2002
20oz Gatorade Bottle-installed
Removed all plastic ducting from front bumper
*Used 2" aluminum pre-heater hose to route air to intake
Removed stock coolant overflow bottle & sensor.
UPDATES: The stock overfill bottle was large and occupied alot of valuable space. The gatorade bottle is a Japanese drifter mod. Usually it is a Milk-Tea or Calpis bottle. The big mouth opening of the gatorade bottle has the exact diameter of the stock bottle. So you can just snap the stock cap on. You'll need to trim the hose that goes into the bottle. And now you can just remove the sensor also. It will not turn on any lights inside. Plus now you can see that pretty green coolant thru the clear bottle. This also allowed me to run a 2" aluminum hose from the front of the bumper right to the air filter. A little bit of ram air action.
November 2, 2002
*Not installed yet, Waiting for Trust Exhaust
Rear Camber and Toe finally corrected
APEX'i N-1 Downpipe Just Arrived!!
UPDATES: The down pipe is awesome. I did a test fit and it lines up perfect. I drenched the stock exahust bolts in WD-40 so when the exhaust end comes nothing would slow me down. The Camber and Toe was easy enough. Just slow and tedious. A lot of trial and error. The ride is greatly improved. Some new found confidence in the handling.
October 31, 2002
Proform Shift Light-Installed
Sparco Aluminum Race Pedals-Installed
Autometer Ultra-Lite, Pro-Comp, Boost Gauge, 2"-installed
UPDATE: Boost gauge is great like the others. Just took a while longer to get here. Came with everything and was the easiest gauge to install.
The Sparco pedals are true race pedals. The require you to remove the old rubber and plastic ones. Then Drill holes in the bare metal to bolt them into place. No clips or bands here. The Shift light was also very easy to install. Just tap the signal wire to the "Tach" wire of the ECU. Then a Hot wire and a ground and done. Set the shift postion. Hopefully now I will shift right before any cuts.
October 24, 2002
*painted factory light grey
Autometer Ultra-Lite, Pro-Comp, Gauges:
*Air/Fuel Meter, 2"-installed
*Water Temp, 2"-installed
Triple Gauge Pod For A-Pillar by Lo-Tek-installed
UPDATE: Quality of the guage pod is super. The light gray is even a very close match. Easy to install. The gauges are awesome. Look great too. Easy to install. I attached mine to the stock temp sender and to the connector side(white wire) of the 02 sensor.
October 23, 2002
*with 4 washers added
Turbo XS 89-94 DSM Type-H Kit part#H-ECLIPSEG1
Turbo XS Blow Off Valve-Type H-installed
UPDATE: Easy to install with optional kit I ordered. Even included a cap to cover up the hole left by the big 1" CBV return hose. Great build quality. Looks awesome under the hood and blows solid and hard. Seals great under vacum. No idling problems here.
October 21, 2002
*with ceramic ball, soft and hard springs
*NOTE*set to near stock Psi till exhaust comes
*stock boost solenoid removed
Hallman Boost Controller-RX kit
UPDATE: Awesome! Is the only way to describe the build quality and ease of installation. The HBC is great and came with everything, even a big fat HBC sticker.More vacuum lines removed and capped off.
October 17, 2002
*removed factory air box
*removed air box silencer
K&N Valve Cover Breather-installed
K&N High Flow Air Filter-installed
UPDATE: I just removed the entire air box. No hacking here. Also capped off some vacuum lines that ran to the crank case. The small K & N filter is attached to a hose and mounted near the air filter.
October 15, 2002
Front Corners-GE Bulb 921,
they fit for both bulbs, very bright
Sparco Aluminum Short Shifter knob
Front Blinker bulbs-1157 Super Whites
*Sleepy eye modification on pop-ups
*NOTE* will probably change out for Hella Halogen H4 conversion
Factory Fog lamps removed
Sylvania Halogen Headlamps part# H4666CB
UPDATE: Just needed to get rid of the brownish, low wattage bulbs. They were just garbage.
Plus the passenger-side fog lamp blocks the air flow to the intercooler.
35% Front Driver & Passenger windows
20% Rear Quarters and Hatch
Windows Tinted 3M proprietary film (guaranteed not to fade)
UPDATE: The 3M guy did a great job. The heat is blocked considerably. Plus the whole top of the car looks blacked out now. Cool Stuff:)
October 9, 2002
*aluminized powder coating
Calipers and rotors stripped and chemically treated
UPDATE: Everything looks better than new. Rotors and calipers look like a million bucks through the large open spokes of the rims.
October 8 2002
Intrax Lowering springs, 1.75" drop
Undercarriage degreased and undercoated
*this included wheel wells
October 2, 2002
Trunk Hatch Shocks replaced
UPDATE: Trunk hatch struts can be bought just about anywhere. A local Auto Zone had them in stock. Cake to install.
Need to strip and clean wheel wells, calipers and rotors. Will do soon.
225/40/18 Goodyear Eagle GSC
18 x 8 light-weight Rota racing rims 7.2 kgs (15.8lbs)
UPDATE: Wheels are always the first thing you need to change. I needed something that looked good, was light, and functional. The spring installation was easy enough. After so may cars it only takes me about an hour to do, by myself.